kesem

I leave my favorite place on Earth for a new adventure in Taiwan.

Volunteering at a temple offers a memorably simple lifestyle, comforting friendships, an Israeli meal, and a trip to Japan’s forgotten gems.

Heartbreak and unrequited longing continue to haunt me as I begin volunteering at an obscure temple and hike to a snowy temple with a unique view of Mt Fuji.

Recuperating with friends in Kyoto is quickly marred by abhorrent Nagoya and the bitter reminder that no one will look out for me but myself.

Snow at Tottori Sand Dunes and Kinosaki Onsen herald a magical Christmas – until sickness in Kyoto ruins all end-of-year plans.

An academic paper, a dwindling budget, and subpar attractions haunt me through Matsuyama, Onomichi, Kurashiki, Izumo Taisha, and the godforsaken Shimane prefecture.

Snoozy Takamatsu, sexually perverse Uwajima, quaint Matsumoto, and a triumphant return to Iya Valley – yet another dangerous slice of nature that changed my life – make way for an unforgettable dish and date in Kochi.

I return with unfinished business to the mountaintop cave temples in Shodoshima, where I nearly died and emerged as a changed person.

Bedridden in Osaka with a sprained ankle, I rest at the biggest hot spring in Japan, then overcome my pain at Fushimi Inari, a cafe in Kyoto, Himeji, and a Yokai festival.

The fall temple marathon across Kyoto continues with fiery leaves, unrequited longing, and sudden tears; geishas, grief, anxiety, and an accident in Sakurai’s temples. Despite the heartache and pain, this is my favorite chapter.

A bleeding heart’s race to see every bleeding temple during Kyoto’s peak foliage. Maples leaves and romantic failure are the epitome of romanticism.

More art museums, more shifts at the language cafe, more parties, more dates, and one ugly breakup. Farewell to Tokyo and romance.

An escape to the Izu Peninsula leads to the fanciest hostel in Japan, archery at the crater of an extinct volcano, gushing waterfalls, exquisite art, and a broken heart.

With no one to count on but myself, I begin volunteering at a language cafe, ascend to Harry Potter heaven, and experience disappointment after disappointment in dating.

Utsunomiya, stone quarries, Koreatown, and betrayal. Back in the biggest city in the world, I find myself alone and helpless.

More fall colors around Kakunodate inject color into an anxious routine of legal endeavors. Romantic defeat kills my hope for a relationship during a solo road trip to Fukushima’s mountains.

An adoptive Japanese grandma from Kakunodate becomes a rock in times of trouble, and a Taiwanese encounter shines in Nyuto Onsen’s yellow forests.

I leave beloved Hokkaido for infuriating days in Tohoku, participate in a Wanko Soba eating marathon, and see fall colors blanketed by snow.

A romantic roadtrip puts me behind the wheel for the first time, on the road and in a relationship. I adore Sapporo, Lake Toya, Jozankei, and my partner to all of this. But war, visas, and money force farewell.

Yoichi, Otaru, a circus, and the ups-and-downs of dating someone. It doesn’t matter, if I am just a passenger in people’s lives.

War in Israel rains on the Marimo festival’s parade in Lake Akan, until a romantic reunion and an immigration office offer new possibilities.

Repeated encounters with Israelis in Asahikawa, Asahidake, Kawayu Onsen, and Lake Akan couldn’t have prepared me for the worst massacre in Israel’s history.

I ascend to heaven in my birthday ryokan atop the highest mountain in Hokkaido, see fall colors for the first time, and soak in my favorite hot spring.

An existential end to my stint at the farm is followed by the perfect brown hot spring and a vivid blue pond.

Farm work, natural wonders, and the pangs of mortal existence. Life is as bittersweet as a cabbage.

After dating in Sapporo proves harder than I thought, I start working at a cabbage farm, all while carrying a heavy balloon.

A delectable road trip around Rishiri Island culminates in romantic estrangement.

Rebun Island, as blustery and intense as it’s remote, is also home to the wackiest hostel on Earth.

Sapporo Pride makes way for a budding romance.

Back to my favorite place in Japan, and where my trip began: Sapporo, prime sushi, a business dinner, and a life-changing encounter.

Parks, Judo, art museums, and hit-or-miss dates. Another day in the life of a straving-artist-turned-backpacker who loathes the human race.

What does it feel like to fall in love? I mull over this in Asakusa, a pitch-black hot spring, art museums, a mosque, and frustrating dates.

A road trip and a nocturnal hike to Fuji-san with my best friend push me to new heights and dark voids.

Six months of searching end in failure. I hate Sendai, I hate Matsushima, I hate people. Good riddance, Tohoku.

More and more problems arise at Tanbo art festival, Hirosaki, Sukayu Onsen, Aomori, and Omagari Fireworks festival.

Things go awry at Morioka Funekko Nagashi festival, Tamagawa Onsen, and a digital detox ryokan.

I return to the digital detox ryokan that changed my life exactly six months later, with unfinished business.

Dewa Sanzan pilgrimage surprises me with a strong contender for my favorite shrine in Japan.

A private tour of a sake factory, Yamadera, Okama, Kesennuma, Morioka, and Nyuto Onsen. There is no need to rest when you’re riding high.

Aomori Nebuta Festival, Osore-zan, Sendai Tanabata Festival, and the country that keeps on giving.

Asakusa, Morioka Sansa Odori Festival, Kakunodate, and Akita Kanto Festival. A marathon of sheer happiness.

Back to my favorite place on Earth!